About us

Advantages

Affiliate Program

carVertical Affiliate Program Terms of Service (Agreement)

Audi VIN Decoder UK

Blog

For Business

Chevrolet VIN Decoder UK

Contacts

Cookie Policy

Dodge VIN Decoder UK

Ducati VIN Decoder UK

Ford VIN Decoder UK

Giveaway Rules

Harley Davidson VIN Decoder

Help

Partner With Us

Jeep UK VIN Decoder

Kawasaki VIN Decoder UK

Lexus VIN Decoder UK

Mercedes VIN Decoder UK

Mini VIN decoder UK

Motorcycle VIN decoder New Zealand

Rules for the Provision of Services

Nissan VIN Decoder UK

Precheck

Press area

Pricing

Privacy policy for users of the website/app services

Privacy Policy Candidates

RAM VIN Decoder UK

Report Return Policy

Report

Sample report

Information Security Policy

Subscription Terms and Conditions

Subscription Service Terms and Conditions

Suzuki VIN Decoder UK

Terms & Conditions

Tesla VIN decoder UK

Toyota VIN Decoder UK

Delete my account

Privacy notice on the processing of vehicle data

VIN Decoder New Zealand

Volvo VIN decoder UK

Volkswagen VIN decoder UK

Yamaha VIN Decoder UK

Renata Liubertaitė

Spotted a gem of a car overseas and thinking about bringing it to New Zealand? Well, before you try and ship it across the ocean, make sure it won’t sink your wallet or your time.

Whether you are a Kiwi returning home, an expat moving to Aotearoa, or a petrolhead hunting for a specific JDM classic, the process can be rewarding – if you get it right. This guide covers the essential steps for importing cars to New Zealand, from understanding the latest Clean Car Standards to clearing biosecurity at the border.

Reveal them all! Just enter a VIN code and click the button:

Used cars have dark secrets

For many, importing a car to NZ comes down to three things: 

There is a reason why nearly 90% of used imports on our roads come from Japan. Japanese auction vehicles often sell for significantly less than their NZ equivalents, even after factoring in shipping and tax. Plus, the strict Japanese "Shaken" testing system means these cars are generally well-maintained.

Aside from Japan, car enthusiasts commonly look at the UK for higher-spec European wagons or to the USA for muscle cars or classics that you simply can’t find locally.

It isn’t always as straightforward as it seems to be on the surface, however. Without correct knowledge and preparation, compliance failures and strict biosecurity checks can cost you thousands in repairs and delays, before you’ve even seen the car in real life.

Car age and emissions standards in New Zealand

New Zealand has tightened its belt on emissions. To register a used import for road use, it generally needs to meet Euro 5 emissions standards. This means even many Japanese petrol vehicles manufactured before 2012 may no longer qualify unless they are specific models.

You also need to budget for the Clean Car Standard (CCS). As of 2025, if you import a used vehicle that exceeds the CO2 target of 112.6 g/km, you will pay a fee of $33.75 for every gram over that limit.

 can provide the specific technical data for the vehicle, including its CO2 emissions (g/km) and Euro standard classification. Having this information in front of you allows you to calculate exactly how much you need to pay in Clean Car fees before even placing a bid.

It’s a simple way to make sure you aren't hit with a surprise invoice when the car lands in Auckland.

 Technically, no. You can import a car of any age. Cars over 20 years old are exempt from the Euro 5 emissions rules and frontal impact standards, making them popular with classic collectors.

Can you import a LHD (left-hand drive) car?

It’s generally not recommended, as it is illegal to register a left-hand drive vehicle for road use in New Zealand unless it falls under specific exemptions.

The most common exception is for vehicles that are 20 years or older. These are classified as Category B and can be registered LHD without conversion, provided they are not used for commercial purposes.

Therefore, if you are eyeing a modern American muscle car (under 20 years old), you will likely need a professional LHD-to-RHD conversion. Make no mistake – this is a major undertaking, costing between $18,000 and $28,000 NZD depending on the model.

How the country of origin affects your import

The country your car comes from determines the type of paperwork you need, what compliance tests you have to deal with, and what the final bill might look like. Importing a car from UK to NZ provides a different set of obstacles compared to sourcing one from Tokyo or Sydney.

For instance, Japan is a well-oiled machine for NZ imports, with pre-inspection services like JEVIC simplifying the process. In contrast, sourcing import cars from USA to NZ often involves complex title checks and expensive conversions if the car is new.

Alternatively, if you choose to import a car from Australia to NZ, the process is incredibly fast, and thanks to Free Trade Agreements, there is zero import duty.

Use carVertical to verify a vehicle’s history before importing

Buying a car unseen from the other side of the world always carries risk. While a vehicle might look pristine in the auction photos, it could be hiding a lemon history.

Before committing to a purchase, running a 

 can help mitigate this risk, offering greater peace of mind when committing money to a purchase. There are multiple areas where a report can help you spot red flags that the seller might not disclose, saving you thousands later on.

Sellers often repair crashed cars to make them look showroom-fresh. A carVertical report can dig up 

, letting you see exactly what the car looked like before the paint job.

 Get dates, costs, and descriptions of past incidents.

 Know immediately if the chassis or frame was compromised, which is a major failure point for NZ compliance.

 is a known issue with imports. A vehicle might leave the UK with 100,000 miles and arrive in NZ displaying 60,000 km. The 

 section compares international data from inspections and service visits to let you know if a newer reading is lower than an older one.

If you are looking to import cars from USA to NZ, checking the legal status is non-negotiable.

, which can make it nearly impossible to insure or register in NZ.

 Checks against international police databases to make sure the vehicle isn't currently reported as stolen.

How much does it cost to import a car to New Zealand?

The price on the page is really just the beginning. As a rule of thumb, budget an extra 

 on top of the purchase price to get the car actually on the road.

When you import cars from Japan to NZ, here is what a typical breakdown looks like for a vehicle bought for 

 ~$2,199 (calculated on purchase price + shipping)

 ~$1,333 (10% of purchase price, though 0% for Australia)

 If MPI finds a single dried leaf or spider web, you’ll pay $100–$300 for cleaning.

 Ports charge $20–$50 per day if you don't clear customs immediately.

Documents you’ll need when importing a car

Paperwork is where many importers get stuck. You often need original physical documents, not just photocopies.

 Original Bill of Sale or Purchase Invoice.

 The original Export Certificate (De-reg). This is critical as it contains the emissions code.

 The V5C logbook or Certificate of Permanent Export.

 You need to apply for this to clear the vehicle in NZ.

Bringing the car home: Car transfer explained

Getting the vehicle to New Zealand usually happens in one of two ways.

Used for 85% of imports. Your car is driven onto the ship and parked, like using a ferry. It is the cheapest and most efficient option, but you cannot pack personal items inside the car.

The car is loaded into a 20ft or 40ft container. This is preferred for high-value classic cars or non-runners. It offers better protection but costs more and takes longer to process.

 If this is your first time, hiring a shipping agent or broker is highly recommended. They handle the logistics, marine insurance (typically ~1% of value), and customs clearance, making sure your car doesn't get stuck at the dock with growing storage fees.

Compliance inspection and entry certification

Once your car arrives (usually in Auckland, which handles 70% of imports), it faces two big hurdles.

 Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI) inspectors check the vehicle for "contaminants", which could be soil, seeds, bugs, or plant matter. Roughly 80% of cars fail this first look and require steam cleaning or fumigation.

 This is the "Warrant of Fitness on steroids." An approved inspector (at places like VTNZ or VINZ) will strip back the interior trim to check structural integrity, verify the VIN, and test safety systems like seatbelts and ESC.

If you are importing a Japanese car to NZ, having the Export Certificate with a valid "Type Designation Number" makes this stage much smoother, as it proves the car meets manufacturing standards.

A ‘new’ vehicle is defined as one that has never been registered or operated on a road anywhere in the world.

The process is largely the same as importing cars to NZ that are used, but there are perks. New vehicles do 

 require a border inspection for structural damage. However, they still require biosecurity checks and must undergo a Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) to ensure they are road-ready.

Registering your imported car in New Zealand

You’ve cleared customs, passed biosecurity, and nailed the compliance check. The final leg is registration (getting your plates). Almost there!

Head to an NZTA agent (like AA or VTNZ) with your MR2A form, which you get after passing entry certification. You will need:

Payment for 6 or 12 months of registration (rego).

 A 12-month rego for a standard petrol car (1.3L–2.6L) is roughly $296.99. Once paid, you’ll get your new NZ number plates and a rego label. Screw them on, and you are good to go!

Can you import cars into New Zealand? 

How much does it cost to import a car to NZ? 

How old does a car have to be to import to NZ? 

Can I import a car without a compliance plate? 

How long does the whole import process take? 

Is it worth shipping a car to New Zealand? 

Importing cars to New Zealand: Rules, costs, and key steps

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of driving away in a ‘new’ used car. But that excitement can turn into a headache pretty quickly if a 

 starts flashing on the dashboard a week later.

For many Kiwis, the immediate panic is about the cost. Who pays for the repairs? Did you sign a warranty? Does it even matter if you didn’t?

Luckily for us, New Zealand has some of the strongest consumer protections in the world. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly what you’re covered for, the legal rights that dealers can’t wiggle out of, and how to avoid the pitfalls of buying a lemon.

Don't risk your safety - check it with carVertical first

Looks can be deceiving!

Consumer rights when buying from a dealer

If you buy a vehicle from an officially registered motor vehicle trader, you have a safety net that exists whether you signed a specific warranty document or not.

This protection comes from the Consumer Guarantees Act (CGA). It overrides any "as is, where is" signs the dealer might have put up. In fact, dealers cannot contract out of the CGA for personal purchases.

Under the CGA, a car must be of "acceptable quality." This means a reasonable person would regard the vehicle as:

 It should be durable and last for a reasonable time.

 Minor issues might be okay on an older, cheap car, but major failures aren’t.

 It must match the description given in advertising or by the salesperson.

 If it was involved in previous incidents, repairs must be up to standard.

The CGA is powerful, but it doesn't cover everything. You generally aren't protected by the Act if:

 and agreed in writing to contract out of the CGA.

The fault was specifically pointed out to you before you bought the car.

What if the car doesn’t meet the CGA requirements?

If your car doesn’t meet the mark, it’s the seller who has the responsibility to fix it.

, the dealer must repair the vehicle – and within a reasonable time. If they refuse or start dragging their feet, you can go and get it fixed elsewhere and claim the costs back.

like if the car is actually unsafe or has issues that mean a reasonable person wouldn't have bought it if they knew about them, you have the right to reject the vehicle. That equates to a full refund, a replacement of similar value, or the option to keep the car and claim compensation for any losses in the value.

It’s very important in these situations that you never try to repair the car or modify it in any way before you contact the dealer. By attempting to change it by yourself you may end up voiding your chance to claim later on.

How does the Motor Vehicle Sales Act protect consumers?

This Act requires anyone selling more than six vehicles a year (or importing more than three) to register as a motor vehicle trader. They must display a Consumer Information Notice (CIN

 on every used vehicle. This card details the price, year, mileage, and whether there is any money owing (security interest) on the car.

What is (and isn’t) typically covered in a used car warranty

It’s important to distinguish between your statutory rights (CGA) and a mechanical warranty. The CGA is the law: a 

 is an insurance contract you or the dealer pays for.

While the CGA covers any fault that makes the car "unacceptable," warranties have specific lists of what is in and what is out.

 Internal parts like pistons, crankshafts, and oil pumps.

 Gearbox internals and torque converters.

 Alternator, starter motor, and central locking.

 Brake pads, tyres, wiper blades, and batteries.

 Issues present before the warranty started.

Many dealers include a standard 3 month warranty on used cars NZ (which is often capped at 5,000km), which is intended to give buyers some peace of mind.

However, you can purchase extended coverage. When researching the 3 year mechanical warranty NZ cost, prices are going to vary – and it’ll all come down to what vehicle you’re looking at, as well as the provider (like Autosure or Provident).

The price is going to hinge heavily on the car’s make, model, age, and 

Having a warranty doesn't stop the need for maintenance. There are still certain expectations you need to meet. The warranty coverage might be voided if you:

 There’s usually a service at every 15,000km for petrol cars which needs to be seen to.

 It's a bit of a no-brainer, but putting the wrong oil or coolant in the engine is a voidable offence.

 Although performance chips and dropping the suspension can seem cool, it has an effect on the warranty.

 Forget about off-roading in a sedan, and be careful about overloading, like towing loads heavier than the rated limit.

What to do if a dealership sells you a faulty car in New Zealand?

Number one is don't panic (of course!). If it turns what you got actually is faulty, simply go through these steps and work out the issue legally and effectively.

 Confirm the fault is there (not just a flat tyre or empty petrol tank.)

 If you feel the car is unsafe or driving it will cause more damage, pull over.

 Do this in writing (email is best) so there is a paper trail.

 Once the dealer arrives, give them a chance to inspect and repair.

 Agree on a repair, refund, or replacement based on the severity of the fault.

 Have your sale agreement, the original ad (if possible), and photos of the fault.

 State clearly if you want a repair or a refund.

 Having a witness can help keep the conversation professional.

 Getting angry rarely speeds up the process. Stick to the facts.

What to do if the dealer disagrees or won’t cooperate

If the dealer ignores you or refuses to fix a genuine CGA issue, you have backup.

 Provided the dealer is part of the MTA, they could step in and offer to act as a go-between. This is a bridge to help find the solution without having to go to court.

 This is the heavy hitter. The MVDT handles complaints against traders. It is efficient, with 97% of matters resolved within six months.

 You can also report dodgy dealers to the Motor Vehicle Traders Register or the Commerce Commission. While they might not get your money back directly, your report helps enforce the law and protects other Kiwis.

This is a critical area where many people make mistakes. If your car breaks down, 

Stopping payments can wreck your credit score and lead to the car being repossessed, leaving you with no car and a debt to pay.

Instead, contact your finance company immediately.

If the dealer arranged the finance, the finance company shares responsibility under the CGA.

This means they must help provide a remedy, which is a lifesaver if the dealer has closed down or gone bust.

What to know when buying from a private seller

Buying from a private seller is a different ball game. You have no CGA protection and usually no warranty. It is strictly "buyer beware."

To protect yourself, you must do your homework:

 A WoF is just a safety check, not a mechanical guarantee.

 Ensure that money isn't owed, and the odometer is real.

Check the car’s history with carVertical before buying

This is where carVertical’s history check can really pay for itself. The 

 can take a deep dive into what’s behind the car's past, and goes a long way to uncovering any secrets that a private seller (or a dishonest dealer) might be trying to hide.

Mileage is key, with the report carefully tuned to focus on 

 – a serious issue in NZ lately. Accurate mileage is really important because it can reveal so much about the car's true value, its wear and tear, and how much life it has left.

What you might not know is that, in New Zealand, many mechanical warranties have limits based on the odometer (as in, coverage could end once the clock hits 150,000km). If you buy a car with a rolled-back odometer, you might end up thinking you are covered, when in fact you find out later that your warranty is bitterly void and you're on the hook for expensive repairs.

Avoid costly problems by checking a vehicle's history. Get a report instantly!

Check your VIN

Can you always rely on a dealer’s word?

Unfortunately, not always. Even with strict laws, there are going to be bad actors somewhere.

Take the case of Seven Seas Motors, when a buyer purchased a Jaguar XJ with an odometer reading of 25,000km. Later, when the engine failed, the checks made by qualified mechanics showed the car had, in fact, over 188,000km on the clock, with a massive rollback of 163,000km.

Buying and selling tips

Importing cars to New Zealand: Rules, costs, and key steps

Second-hand car warranty in NZ: What are you legally covered for?

Leasing a car vs buying in NZ: Which option fits you better?

Buying a car privately in NZ: what to expect